‘Every Cook Must Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.